The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell

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Originally published on EverydayeBook.com

With The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell, Mark Kurlansky once again stuns with his unique talent for so comprehensively capturing the larger history of time and place through the history of one very small object. In this case, Kurlansky takes us through the history of New York City by zooming in on the rich history of New York’s oyster. As Kurlansky says so perfectly, “the history of New York oysters is a history of New York itself—its wealth, its strength, its excitement, its greed, its thoughtlessness, its destructiveness, its blindness and…its filth.” Kurlansky begins with the Lenape and Munsey Native Americans’ consumption patterns and with the history of the oyster in general. We’re then taken to the early Dutch settlements of New York, where Manhattan was no more than a village in the southernmost tip of the island—Harlem was a village 3 hours away.  This was a time when the beauty of the Hudson River and it’s surroundings were extolled by both the Dutch and vistors. Oysters were no exception—friends and family back in Europe received “rhapsodic descriptions” of huge, delectable oysters. The expansion of New York and the expansion of oyster consumption continued to be inextricably linked, each feeding the other and weaving into the lore and culture of New York. The first restaurants in New York all started as oyster houses—we learn particularly of Delmonico’s rise to fame and introduction of the French style of raw oysters to New Yorkers. As the city grows and becomes more of the mass consumption hub it is today, oyster recipes get more lavish and mass quantities of oysters are eaten in a single sitting. Kurlansky particularly spends time on the Gilded Age, which was the height of New York’s grand living, and the height of oyster consumption. Through his tracking of oysters, we get a richly developed picture of the culture and politics of New York in the 19th century.

 

Of course, all this consumption comes with a price. Kurlansky gets somber towards the end of the book, detailing the horrifying pollution that slowly killed off oysters in the New York area and made the once vibrant estuary a poisonous pool of gunk. He cites the Clean Water Act of 1972 and does note that the Hudson around NYC is slowly filling with wildlife again—even some oyster beds are returning, though no one would recommend eating them. Still, The Big Oyster is as much a cautionary tale as a fun romp through the history of New York. Kurlansky impresses the importance of preserving the wonderful bounty the early Dutch extolled, and the price we now pay for violating these lands for so long. But The Big Oyster never scolds—entertaining and chock full of information, it simply opens your eyes to the beauty and history on your dinner plate, and the importance of keeping that history alive. Some food for thought, next time we sit down to eat.